Instead of attempting to dig and move this plant, why not dig up a few of the shoots at the base of the shrub and transplant them? Lilac shoots are exceptionally easy to transplant. I have transplanted many lilac bushes from the original bushes that my grandmother planted on our Wisconsin dairy farm 70 years ago. Early spring until late spring, from when the lilacs develop buds until they actually have small leaves, is the best time to transplant.
If you have lilacs growing in your yard -- or if you have a friend who has lilacs -- and you would like to start some new lilac bushes, here's how: 1.
Decide where you want to transplant the lilac bush or bushes. Dig a hole that's about one foot deep by one foot across for each bush you want to transplant.
Dig up a lilac shoot from somewhere around the main bush. Lilacs spread by runners. Use a shovel to dig up the shoot because you are going to have to cut off the runner, and a trowel will not be tough enough to do the job. Choose a shoot that is approximately 8 to 14 inches high. Smaller shoots that are only a few inches high will take a very long time to mature to the point where they will have flowers.
Larger shoots seem to take a longer time to recover from being transplanted before they start to grow well.
They were kept in the greenhouse but a shady spot in the yard will work just fine too. With some I had to cut the large roots back so it was easier to fit them in the pots, the smaller roots will be fine to get started.
Fill some 1-gallon pots or taller 4-inch pots with potting soil halfway then place the lilac sucker or shoot into it before filling the pot the rest of the way with soil.
Some of the Lilac bushes I had rooted from cuttings were still in their containers and had suckers coming up in the pots. So I decided to divide those as well. It was quite simple as the roots were not that big yet. For potted lilacs, you just pop the Lilac out of the pot. These in the photo really do need to be potted up, planted in the garden or divided and I opted for dividing. Grab a garden knife and slice through the entire root mass between the center rooted cutting and the side shoots, which are the suckers.
I did this a few weeks ago and they are growing strong and healthy. Not even a bit of droop from shock. I ended up getting so many I had plenty of lilacs to share with friends and family. You do not have to put your freshly dug suckers or shoots into pots.
You can plant them directly into the ground. To plant your freshly dug lilac sucker in the ground, dig a hole deep enough, loosen up the soil some by digging around with your shovel. Place your lilac sucker or shoot into the hole and fill back with the loose soil. Gently firm it in with your foot. Water it in well. Keep your fresh planted lilac watered until it is established. This is best done in Spring before the temperatures get too hot so the roots can start to get growing and able to bring up water.
Keep close watch on it for a few months. And that is how you propagate lilacs from suckers. Just one more note, I credit my chickens and their leavings doo with a lot of my success in gardening, great soil builder.
That being said if you would like to get into chicken keeping here is a great resource on it: Fresh Eggs Daily, Raising Happy Chickens Naturally. Want more garden and DIY fun? Sign up for our newsletter to be notified of the latest and greatest. More Garden Goodness for You to Enjoy! The suckers are how the plant rejuvenates itself.
Many remove them as they start to get wider and wider. Here is an article on pruning that may help explain it. Pruning Lilacs. It seems like my lilac is grafted. I removed some suckers and potted them. You mentioned it will not work with a grafted lilac. Do you just mean that the lilac will be different? Or should I not propagate from the suckers of this lilac?
The underground root structure of a lilac bush can sometimes get pretty large, and it is important not to damage any roots if possible. Once the plant is up, remove much of the soil from around the roots. This can be done using water or lightly shaking the roots. Once the soil has been removed, select a new location for the plant. For best results when transplanting lilac bushes, the new hole should be dug before removing the plant from its current location.
This will limit the amount of time that the plant spends out of the ground. Ensure that the new location will satisfy the needs of the plant. There should be a good amount of direct sunlight each day, a minimum of six hours, and also good drainage of water.
The hole should be large enough to house the entire root system freely, and not in a large clump. Spread out the roots and add soil a little bit at a time and press firmly to remove any air pockets and reinforce the support for the plant.
The crown of the lilac bush, where the roots come together, should be just an inch or so beneath the surface of the soil, as the roots need air to grow. Now, the plant must be watered gently, to ensure the roots are in contact with the soil. When transplanting lilac bushes, there is no such thing as being too careful to the roots. Damaging roots while transplanting lilac bushes can severely decrease the chance of survival.
Transplanting lilac bushes is often done for a variety of reasons. One reason is that the plant may not be thriving in its current location. This may be for several reasons, including not enough sun or soil drainage.
Another reason for transplanting lilac bushes is to create a better screen for wind or unattractive sights. Shop By Department. Flowering Trees. Chaste Trees. Shade Trees. Birch Trees. Privacy Trees. Arborvitae Trees. Patio Trees. Citrus Trees. Trees Just for You. Evergreen Trees. Grapefruit Trees. Fruit Trees. Apple Trees. Edible Plants. Tropical Plants. Avocado Trees. Nut Trees. Almond Trees. Fruit Plants Just for You. Aronia Chokeberry Bushes. Flowering Bushes.
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So, gear up for a fresh winter landscape headed your way with the help of Nature Hills and this blog! What Is A Broadleaved Evergreen? There are two types of Evergreens: those with needles and those with broad leaves.
All broadleaved plants are those that have relatively flat leaves for a large surface area instead of having leaves that are needles. Needle Evergreens are easier to identify, but a few known options include: Spruce, Pines and Junipers.
In fact, this blog is proof of that! There are several evergreen plants that are also labeled as broadleaf shrubs, despite not having the characteristic of needle-bearing leaves. With a few different choices, it can be hard to know which Broadleaved Evergreen is for you! Boxwoods You know them. You love them. Boxwoods are one of the most cold hardy Broadleaved Evergreen shrubs you can find, which makes them relatively ideal for just about any home in any growing zone. The shiny, glossy green leaves will keep their color year-round, even in zones that see snow and frigid temperatures.
You can find Boxwoods that spread in form, such as a Winter Gem Boxwood, or go for one that has an upright shape to it, like a Rotundifolia Boxwood. This Broadleaved Evergreen is perfect for shearing to create formal hedges or pyramidal specimens.
However, they will even look great when let to grow naturally as well. Holly Bushes Holly Bushes are prized leading up to and during the holiday season. Their dark green colored shiny leaves come to an aggressive point while brilliantly red berries appear to steal the show away.
Imagine having a holiday party and your guests cannot stop commenting on the fresh, festive decorations in the living room. Holly Bushes are also versatile. Choose from spreading forms to upright forms. And, you can place them just about anywhere as a: formal hedge row, foundation plant, or understory to large trees! Even without a yard, you can count on this Broadleaved Evergreen. The narrow styles of these will grow pleasantly in outdoor containers!
Take that apartment next door. Rhododendron Introducing the infamous Broadleaved Evergreen shrub, the Rhododendron. When most people hear the word Rhododendron, they immediately jump to the giant springtime flowers that are so profuse in color they make you second guess if they are real.
While this much is true, just like their fellow friends, these shrubs also hold an eye-catching shiny green foliage all year long keeping the visual interest going in a timeless manner. Use them just as you would any other evergreen shrub, but this time expect an added bonus of incredible flower displays! Remember that Broadleaved Evergreens are all the rage for a rightful reason!
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